All Culinary Artist Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.

Jesus Powers
Jesus Powers

Award-winning journalist with 15 years of experience covering UK politics and international affairs for major news outlets.